Genuine Leather vs PU Leather: 7 Simple Ways to Tell the Difference

Many wallets, belts and bags are sold as “leather” when they are actually PU, a plastic coating on fabric. PU can look smart in photos, but it peels and cracks within a year or two. Genuine leather lasts for years and looks better as it ages. Here are seven simple checks you can do in a shop or the moment your parcel arrives.

1. Look at the surface

Real leather is skin, so its grain is slightly irregular, with small pores, creases and natural marks. PU has a perfectly repeated pattern, because it is printed or embossed by a machine.

2. Check the edges

Turn the item over and look at a cut edge. Genuine leather shows dense, fibrous layers that are often burnished or painted smooth. PU shows a thin plastic layer on top of fabric or foam.

3. Look at the back

The underside of real leather is suede-like and slightly fuzzy. PU usually has a woven fabric backing.

4. Smell it

Leather has a rich, natural smell. PU smells of plastic or chemicals.

5. Press and fold it

Press your thumb into real leather and it wrinkles and creases naturally, then slowly relaxes. PU tends to dent evenly and spring straight back, like rubber.

6. A drop of water

On untreated or lightly finished leather, a small drop of water is absorbed slowly and darkens the spot for a moment. On PU, water just sits on top. Do this test somewhere hidden.

7. Watch how it ages

Over months of use, genuine leather softens and develops a patina, a richer colour and shine where it is handled most. PU fades, cracks and peels at folds and corners.

What about price?

Very cheap “leather” wallets and belts are almost always PU. Real leather costs more because the material and the hand finishing cost more, but it lasts many times longer, so it is usually cheaper per year of use.

Our approach at Tanwood

Tanwood wallets, belts and bags are made from pure leather and finished by hand by local artisans. Browse our leather wallets, belts and bags, or visit one of our stores to feel the difference in person.

Shop handcrafted leather at Tanwood, with cash on delivery, free shipping on prepaid orders and 7-day exchange.